Archive | Fashion

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A Fashion-Forward Gift: Matthew Williamson by Colin McDowell

Posted on 14 December 2010 by anc

For those of you looking for fashionista-friendly holiday gift ideas, look no further than Rizzoli‘s recent release: Matthew WIlliamson, by fashion historian Colin McDowell. A beautiful homage to one of fashion’s most playful designers, the book celebrates Williamson‘s vibrantly colorful creations, tracing a line from his very first collection in 1997 to his brand’s current global, multi-million dollar status. It also features a foreword by fashion-darling Sienna Miller, along with contributions by tastemakers like Anna Wintour, Diane von Furstenberg, and Sir Paul Smith. Illustrated by richly colored photos of celebrity fashion shoots, runway moments, textiles and patterns, sketches and scrapbooks, it’s an in-depth look at one of fashion’s favorites. And if this new tome is any indication, Williamson’s flirty, feminine styles – and his knack for bohemian chic – will only get better with time.

Matthew WIlliamson
Hardcover
Published by Rizzoli
US Price: $65.00
CAN Price: $76.00
ISBN: 978-0-8478-3394-8
Available through Rizzoli or Amazon.

*images courtesy of Rizzoli

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Daredevil Textiles from Taller Flora

Posted on 21 September 2010 by anc

Mexican designer Carla Fernández is the founder of Taller Flora, a fashion label and mobile laboratory that travels throughout Mexico visiting indigenous communities – especially women’s co-ops that create handmade textiles. Taller Flora has developed a unique pedagogy where artisans communicate through design, even in those places where only indigenous dialects are used.

Contrary to some of the kitsch stereotype exported abroad by Mexico, ancient patterning shows an elaborate system of pleats, folds and seams to construct a vast array of garments using squares and rectangles only. Fernández believes that “only radical contemporary design will prevent the extinction of craftsmanship.”

In Flora’s philosophy, tradition is not static and fashion is not ephemeral. With a growing base of artisans, Taller Flora is dedicated to an innovative business model that prioritizes a fair trade network and a set of environmental policies to foster responsible practices in fashion.

Check out Fernández’s Fall/Winter 2010 collection below.

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Tangled Up in Blue:Dirty Librarian Chains for Fall 2010

Posted on 26 August 2010 by anc

For its 2010 Autumn/Winter collection, DLC Brooklyn – DLC being the abbreviation for the oh-so-entertaining “Dirty Librarian Chains” – has found inspiration in the world of rock-n-roll. Founder and jewelry designer Susan Domelsmith has hand-selected and deconstructed vintage pieces, giving them new life through unique pairings, draping, knotting and tangling.

Primarily a mix of blue and gold tones, the new line calls to mind the warmer colors of autumn and winter. And DLC’s rock influence comes through in the combination of chains, charms and brooches, along with playful titles like the “Frequency Necklace,” the “Sound Wave Pocket Chain,” the cascading “Crescendo Earrings,” and the “Metronome Bracelet.”

DLC’s upcycled, modern style is perfect for dressing up or down, and comes at an affordable price point too. Most of her statement pieces range between $25 and $240. Available internationally, the line is getting some major celeb play as well, gracing the likes of Debbie Harry, Kate Hudson, Gwyneth Paltrow and the Vivian Girls.

And the latest line reinforces DLC Brooklyn’s commitment to sustainability as well. Working with pre-existing, often vintage pieces and packaging made from recycled materials, Domelsmith believes that beyond sustainability, that resourcefulness is also part of what makes the line so memorable. In her own words: “The materials and components of each design constantly change based on what is available, making each piece special and unique, as well as creating a dynamic history that arises from the interaction of individual vintage components.”

To learn more, visit www.dlcbrooklyn.com.


*above: DLC Brooklyn’s Metronome Necklace


*above: Amp Necklace


*above: Crescendo Prelude Verse


*above: Crescendo (detail)


*above: Cadenza


*above: Cadenza (detail)

*All images courtesy of DLC Brooklyn.

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Street View: Global Style

Posted on 24 August 2010 by anc

For anyone curious about the current pulse of global street fashion, here’s your new guidebook.
Street View, a new title from Nylon Magazine and Rizzoli, takes a globe-trotting look at style on the streets in seven of the world’s most fashionable cities: New York, London, Tokyo, Stockholm, Barcelona, L.A. and Montreal.

Exploring the differences and similarities in trends round the globe, Street View goes straight to the source, with photos and profiles of stylish residents from each city, including their sources of inspiration, favorite local shops and websites. (See below!) The result? Aspiring fashionistas can enjoy the look and deconstruct it all at the same time.

And let’s face it, what better way to start than by hitting the streets for inspiration? Especially since today’s street style can often inspire next season’s runway looks.

Street View comes out next month, but is available for pre-order now on Amazon.

Street View: The New Nylon Book of Global Style
by the staff of Nylon Magazine
Paperback/256 pages/225 photographs
Published by Rizzoli
$24.95 US
Available in September


*above: Tokyo’s “Baby Mary,” dressed in a Maison Michel & Chanel headpiece, Valentino blouse, and skirt boots and bracelet by Louis Vuitton. Describing her style, she says, “I love to be a hardcore princess today!” And her city in three words? “Harajuku!! Can’t stop loving.”


above: Writer/law student Noah, from Los Angeles, here dressed in his “casual fall attire,” says his style icon is Theodore Roosevelt. His city in three words? “The finest around.”


*above: Barcelona’s Andres, in a vintage jacket, t-shirt and scarf from American Apparel, H&M trousers and Marc Jacobs chain, calls Winona Ryder his style icon, “because she never spends a cent when she goes shopping.”

*All images courtesy of Rizzoli

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Traditional Values: Valeria Florescano

Posted on 29 July 2010 by anc

Inspired by Mexico’s rich glass works tradition, Mexico City-based artist Valeria Florescano translates that legacy into modern home accessories, jewelry and installations. Florescano shares some of her favorite projects – and the creative rationales behind them – with us below.

Valeria Florescano has been awarded scholarships for Pilchuck School of Glass, Corning Museum of Glass, and Penland Arts and Crafts School. She is an active member of the Board of the School of Design at Universidad Anáhuac, México.

She has shown in galleries and museums in Mexico and abroad in the Netherlands, the United States, Japan and Ukraine. Her glass work is part of the Vitro Glass Collection in Monterrey, N.L. Mexico, and the National Museum of Lviv in Ukraine.

Florescano is currently working in the notable glass factory Nouvel in Mexico city while completing an MFA in sculpture at the Escuela Nacional de Artes Plásticas at the National University of México, UNAM.

Enjoy!

above: “Bulbs,” made of recycled glass. Technique: blown glass into optic mold. Length: 17cms. Width: 6 cms. (At the widest part), mouth ø: 2 cms. According to Florescano: “It was my intention to reverse the flower vase idea. The ‘bulbs’ function as glass flowers, and therefore become the prominent object to contemplate. This design enhances the stem. The ‘bulbs’ are unifleur vases designed for soft stem flowers like the calla lily, tulips, daffodil, agapanthus, or the African lily. The idea was that the stem would fit perfectly into the hole and work as a cork, thus preventing the water inside from spilling. The design lets you use them horizontally and vertically, or to place them as sculptures in an upside down position. When used as unifleurs without a vase, the ‘bulbs’ can play with gravity. They can be held together from the stem with a knot so the bulbs settle in balance forming an architectural like structure.”



above:
The Mangle Unifleur are a set of vases made in borosilicate glass, available in three sizes.

above: Manita rings. Technique: found object, wax casted in Silver .925 . Says Florescano: “This ring has a sense of romanticism. It also reminds me of Kahlo´s finger pieces. It can be used as a pendant, while it is reminiscent of antique door knobs, but the ring actually has movement. When you place it on your finger, the hand rests in your own, in a caressing gesture.”

above: Sol-O rings. Technique: Silver .925 and goldleaf. “This ring is based in the circular form. Both the wire and the sheet of metal started as a circle, and only with a simple twist and a cut we obtain this strong form,” says Florescano.

above: The Tehuana Goblet Technique: Installation with hand blown venetian pieces and video performance. Explains Florescano: “In the frame of the Tehuana Goblet exhibit held in … Oaxaca this past summer, I presented works that refer [simultaneously] to the garment of the isthmus and to blown glass, particularly the style known as Verre à la façon de Venise…
“Both practices share parallel processes and circumstances; therefore, the exhibition allows me the opportunity to work with certain ideas and concepts of interest in regard to the historical trajectory of objects, their development from a natural state passing through an utilitarian condition (from which its subsistence depends) into a higher degree of sophistication in usage.
“The geographical conditions of the isthmus of Tehuantepec and the Venetian archipielago site are both zones in the crossroads of the old commercial routes between east and west of their respective continents. This particularity has been translated into various aspects of cultural richness and hybridization where habits, beliefs and needs expanded the expressive local languages. Today, it is [important] to revisit these cultural wonders in order to think carefully [about] the skills and shortages of our present. Therefore, trying to approach and strengthen different fields of knowledge, Tehuana Goblet presents itself as a container of ideas on identity, ritual, richness and seduction.”

*All images courtesy of the artist.

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WARMI: Modern Knits

Posted on 16 July 2010 by anc

French-Colombian designer Sylvia Toth’s fashion line, WARMI, blends tradition with modernity by interpreting Latin American folk craftsmanship with a European flair. Launched in 2008, every WARMI collection is entirely handcrafted by women weavers of the Colombian villages of Tausa and Sutatausa. Each handmade item is numbered and signed by the artisan who made it. Their traditional, meticulous techniques result in whimsical garment and accessories collections where “every piece has a particular aura, charged with the soul of the weavers.”

Born in Colombia, Toth is now Paris-based, though she makes frequent trips back to Colombia. A child of two cultures, her dual-identity serves an inspiration for what is ultimately a very personal brand, and one that bridges her cultural backgrounds. “In Paris, I’m at the center of information, arts, culture…that’s where I create,” Toth says. “Bogota is the city where everything is possible, a rich mixture of modern architecture, blue mountains, misery, wealth and the bizarre. A place where people always wear a smile… This is where I recharge my batteries and produce my creations, shoulder to shoulder with the artisans.”

The word WARMI means “woman” in Quechua, one of the last indigenous languages that still exists in the Andean region. Describing the brand, Toth shares, “WARMI is not only a tribute to women – as artisans, a life force and the ultimate creators – but also to the tradition of a craft and ancestral ‘savoir faire’ from a culture that is fading away.”

For each new collection, Toth is inspired by everything from classical art to the streets. “I am very inspired by medieval art, especially the animal representations found in the ‘Bestiaires.’ I love their mythical and ‘brut’ dimension,” she says. And her list of varied inspirations goes on. “All the work done by the naïf painters: Seraphine, Douanier Rousseau. Their primitive yet very modern vision! Or in a more contemporary scene, Walton Ford. The Colombian popular culture is very inspiring too… a kind of surreal POP-FOLK! An indigene, African and catholic syncretism…In fashion I love the work of Nicolas Ghesquière or Muccia Prada for Miumiu.”

Currently, Toth is working on a series of prints inspired by Jean Cocteau’s drawings, and enjoying the power of Frida Khalo’s work.

Check out highlights from WARMI’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection below, named “Delices,” the French word for “Pleasure of a great subtilité and intensity.” This playful knit collection reflects Toth’s signature talent for combining modern elements with classic imagery and folklore, and, according to Toth, expresses a desire to find the divine condition. Featuring Eden-like figures – a bird, a peacock, a serpent – “Delices” calls to mind Eve’s grace period before the fall…

*All images courtesy of WARMI.
For more information, visit warmi.fr.

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Zaha Hadid: The Glace Collection for Swarovski

Posted on 24 June 2010 by anc

One of the world’s most renowned architects, Zaha Hadid has been celebrated for a one-of-a-kind architectural language, based on fluid, organic shapes, always seemingly just beyond this world. For Summer 2010, she’s bringing her same creative language to a jewelry collection for Atelier Swarovski.

The Glace collection, as its called, consists of five pieces – bracelets, necklaces and rings – designed to be dramatically worn individually or as complementary pieces together. Each sculpted piece features colorful crystals suspended in clear resin, and every piece is available as one of only 50 in the exclusive collection.

According to Ms. Hadid:
“This enigmatic new Glace collection celebrates a powerful dichotomy between the purity of Swarovski’s precision cut crystals and the subtle, organic forms that envelop them. Each piece within the collection has evolved as an abstraction of the sinuous forms evident in nature, revealing my desire for experimentation and invention throughout every stage of design and realization.”

A selection from the new line is below; for more information, visit atelierswarovski.com.


*above: Zaha Hadid Pendant Jet


*above: Zaha Hadid Flame Cuffs


*above: Zaha Hadid Collar Opal


*above: Zaha Hadid Ring 1 +2 Crystal


*above: Zaha Hadid Jet Bangles

*All images courtesy of Atelier Swarovksi.

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Celebrating 20 Years: Maison Martin Margiela @ Somerset House

Posted on 22 June 2010 by anc

This summer, London’s Somerset House is proud to host Maison Martin Margiela ’20’ The Exhibition; a major exhibition celebrating 20 years of one of contemporary fashion’s most influential and enigmatic designers.

Young as its history is, no other fashion house has had quite the same impact on our understanding of fashion and its relationship to history, craft, commerce and innovation. 20 years on, Maison Martin Margiela’s radical questioning and rethinking of what fashion is, how we clothe the body and ideals of human beauty, is still as groundbreaking as ever. This multi-layered exhibition captures Margiela’s one-of-a-kind aesthetic and vision spanning the past two decades, by incorporating installations, photography, video and film.

The show provides an opportunity to learn more about the brand and its philosophy through a visual examination of themes that underpin the essence of the fashion house since its creation – from its deconstructivist, subversive design aesthetic and avant-garde couture to its understated branding, unusual boutique interiors and ‘trompe-l’oeil’ or optical illusion and its couture atelier white coats. Various iconic pieces from both the women and menswear collections will be on display, such as the highly replicated ‘Tabi’ boots, as well as specially recreated garments for the exhibition.

Conceived in close collaboration with Maison Martin Margiela and curated by the Mode Museum, Antwerp, the show makes its London debut where it will be specially reconfigured for the Embankment Galleries, following critical acclaim at the MoMu, Antwerp and Haus der Kunst, Munich last year.

A graduate of Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Martin Margiela formerly worked as design assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier before showing his first collection under his own label in 1988. Employing a ‘deconstructivist’ approach – monochromatic palette, outsized garments, non-traditional fabrics, the use of recycled materials and exposing the construction of his clothes – Margiela displayed a radically new visual language that diametrically opposed the power dressing of the 1980s. Often referred to as the seventh member of the “Antwerp Six,” Margiela early on decided to let his fashion speak for itself and remain anonymous. As a result, Margiela as a brand is driven by product and sheer invention rather than fad, hype and celebrity often linked to other fashion labels.

Visitor details below. And if you’d like an abbreviated walk-through of the exhibit, take a look at Somerset House’s video below!

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA ‘20’ THE EXHIBITION
Now through September 5th
An exhibition at Somerset House, London:
Somerset House Embankment Galleries, Stand, London, WC2R 1LA
Open daily 10.00 to 18.00.
Tickets: Adult £6, Concessions £5, Under 12s Free
For further information, call 020 7845 4600

*Images courtesy of Somerset House.

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Stylish Threads: Rodarte for Knoll Luxe

Posted on 27 May 2010 by anc

Rodarte – the American fashion powerhouse by sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy – moves beyond the runway and into home décor this month. The duo has created five upholstery and three drapery patterns for Knoll Luxe, a luxury fabric division of Knoll, Inc. The new collection is an abstract translation of Rodarte’s runway inspirations from the past five years.

Known for innovative, conceptual collections, Rodarte often combines haute couture elements with daring, even destructive techniques (burning, etc.) for a uniquely fresh perspective on the runways. Now, the Mulleavy sisters are applying that same tactile- and concept-driven approach to their work with Knoll. The new line consists of designs named for the sisters’ favorite poets, including E.E. Cummings, John Keats, W. H. Auden and Dorothy Parker. Prices range from $130 per yard and up, and the color palette includes hues of ice blue, plum, wheat, fawn, and royal navy.

Notably, the Mulleavy sisters’ fresh perspective may come by virtue of their outsider status; prior to launching their label, neither sister had any formal fashion training. In fact, Kate studied art history and Laura studied literature and the modern novel at the University of California, Berkeley.

Speaking of Knoll’s collaborative history, Knoll Luxe creative director Dorothy Cosonas says, “Since its inception, Knoll has worked with cutting-edge designers – from Eero Saarinen to Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. Collaborating with Rodarte, arguably the most innovative voice in the fashion world today, furthers Knoll’s rich tradition.”

Several of the Rodarte for Knoll Luxe designs have been chosen for the permanent collection at Cooper-Hewitt. Check out the Knoll Luxe offerings – and their runway inspirations – below…



*above: Rodarte’s fashion and textile interpretations of Auden



*above: Byron fashion and textile interpretations



*above: fashion and textiles inspired by Keats



*above: fashion and textiles inspired by Emerson



*above: Parker interpretations in fashion and textile

*All images courtesy of Knoll. Fashion photography by Autumn de Wilde.

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Hats On! Jane Taylor Millinery

Posted on 25 May 2010 by anc

British milliner Jane Taylor‘s handcrafted, stunning hats and headpieces are inspired by vintage materials and classic designs, embellished with vintage feathers, veiling, lace, gems and antique adornments. Every hand crafted piece is unique, and Taylor works closely with clients throughout the design process to achieve tailor made pieces to perfectly suit clients’ specifications.

Taylor has collaborated with leading British designers such as Caroline Charles and has worked with well known figures in the music industry to create bespoke headpieces used in music videos and television appearances. Her pieces have featured in fashion pubs like VOGUE, Elle, Tatler and Harpers.

Jane Taylor’s pieces can be purchased online, and in the next week, her whole diffusion range will be available to view and buy in the online shop: www.janetaylormillinery.com/catalog/Shop/.

For us, it was love at first sight. Check out Taylor’s latest works below (beautifully photographed by Sarah Jones), and let us know what you think!

CREDITS:
Photography: Sarah Jones Photography
Make-up Artist: RMP Makeup
Fashion Styling: Kate Anya Styling
Dresses: Lisa Redman

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